Sunday afternoon bike maintenance is my personal ritual. After wrapping up a Sunday morning ride, the very first step is patience. I park the motorcycle and leave it alone for several hours so the engine block and exhaust system can shed their heat completely. Spraying cold water on blistering metal is asking for trouble, so waiting until the engine is completely cool or just barely warm is non negotiable.

Once the bike is ready, I roll it into the shade away from direct sunlight and hoist it onto the main stand. Direct sunlight causes soap and cleaning solutions to dry way too fast, leaving stubborn water spots.

Tackling the Drivetrain Grime

I always start with the filthiest parts first. I remove the front sprocket cover to get direct access to all the accumulated road crud and flung chain lube.

For breaking down this heavy grime, I rely on regular diesel poured into a 500ml spray bottle. I spray down the sprocket cover and let the diesel dissolve the thick grease. Next, I spray the chain generously and work it with a dedicated chain cleaning brush to get into every link. While the diesel bottle is in hand, I also spray the underbelly exhaust bend pipe and the gear shifter linkage to melt away baked on road grime.

With the heavy grease dissolved, I thoroughly rinse the chain set with clean water and then give the rest of the motorcycle an initial rinse. This flushes away the diesel residue and helps bring the engine temperature down even further.

Engine and Wheel Degreasing

Next up is the degreasing stage. In another 500ml spray bottle, I mix up a fresh batch: 200ml of degreaser concentrate and 300ml of clean water. This ratio gives plenty of cleaning power without being overly aggressive.

I spray this mixture over the engine block, clutch cover area, exhaust muffler, and the alloy wheels. The golden rule here is to work part by part. I agitate each section with a soft detailing brush and rinse it off immediately. Degreaser should never be allowed to dry on painted surfaces or raw engine fins, as it can easily leave stains or damage the finish.

The Two Bucket Contact Wash

With the grit knocked out, I give the bike another quick rinse and prepare the main wash. I set up two buckets: one filled with car shampoo water and the second filled with plain, clean water.

I dip a soft microfiber wash mitt into the soapy bucket and glide it gently over the painted surfaces. I always wipe in straight lines in one direction, never in circular motions. Swirling your mitt around is the easiest way to grind micro particles into the clear coat.

I work strictly from top to bottom, starting at the fuel tank, working down through the panels, and finishing at the wheels. After wiping down each section, I dunk the mitt into the clean water bucket to rinse out trapped dirt before reloading it with fresh soap.

Once the body panels are clean, I use the leftover soapy water and a stiff tyre cleaning brush to scrub down the rubber. After that, the entire motorcycle gets a thorough, final rinse from head to toe.

Drying

Water spots form fast, so drying needs to happen promptly. I reach for a plush 1200 GSM microfiber towel. Just like the washing phase, I follow the top to bottom rule, moving in straight lines in one direction without circular rubbing. The high density towel lifts moisture off the surface immediately without needing heavy pressure.

Once the wipe down is done, I give the bike a short rest so any hidden moisture inside crevices can air dry naturally.

Post Wash Lubrication

Once the bike is completely dry, it is time for mechanical care. I grab a can of WD40 to disperse residual moisture and lubricate key pivot points. Before spraying anything, I place a clean cloth over the fuel tank to shield the paint from overspray. Then, I lightly hit the handlebar switches, keyhole barrels, clutch and brake lever pivots, footpegs, and both the side and main stands.

Next comes the chain and gear shifter. With the engine strictly turned off, I rotate the rear wheel by hand and apply Motul C2 chain lube along the inner run of the chain links. Coating the inner side allows centrifugal force to push the lubricant outward into the rollers during your next ride instead of immediately slinging off.